Sewing Seams and Seam Finishes 2

A continuation of the techniques in Seams 1 with illustrations that show you how to do a greater variety of seams.

 Strap seamis used for decoration. Plain seam is made and pressed open. On the right side, baste a strip of material with edges turned in, and edge stitch both sides. Braid and other trimmings may also be used.  

 Corded seam  uses cord which has been basted inside a bias strip.  Place bias covered cord on the right side of one piece of material with basting directly on seam line, cut edges towards edge of fabric. Baste and place second piece of fabric, right sides facing, edges together, in position as for plain seam. Baste and stitch on seam line, using cording foot.   

 Piped seam. Fold bias strip in half and placed on the right side of fabric with fold 1/8 inch inside seam line. Baste and place other piece right side down on top; baste and stitch. Trim seam, press so that piping falls along edge of seam. Decorative. 

 Curved seam must be clipped or slashed in several places to make it lie flat. This is important for smooth finish.

 Enclosed seams  are plain seams used in double thicknesses as in collar and cuffs. Trim very close, clip edges to lie flat, press and turn.   

 Crossed seams  are two seams that cross. To avoid bulkiness, press seams open and clip away edges of under seam.   

 Whipped seam  is used for piecing when fabric is not wide enough to cut full pattern. Be sure grain of piecing is the same as the grain of garment / sewing project, turn in edges, and overcast with tiny stitches.   

 Seams with inserts. Place lace or trimming on right side, baste, and hem edges by hand, or use zigzag attachment or zigzag stitch on zigzag machine. On wrong side, cut fabric away, and roll edges, or turn the edges back and stitch them, but not to the garment / sewing project.   

 Bias seam  should be sewed over paper to avoid tightening. Tear paper away.   

 Raw seam edges  are finished to prevent fraying and raveling and to act as stay lines so that seams do not pull out of shape. Finish must be suitable for the texture and transparency of the material.   

 Pinking   is done with pinking shears and is a very simple finish. However, pinking should be done only on firmly woven fabrics.   

 Clean finish  is the name for seam edges which are turned back ½ inch and stitched. The seam so finished is called a silk seam.   

 Binding   is done by enclosed edges in binding and stitching.   

 Overcasting is explained and illustrated in Basic Stitches 2   

 Hemstitching and picoting  are done on transparent fabric seam edges. Picoting gives a very decorative effect, and is sometimes used to finish seam edges which are going to be fagoted together. 

In Seams 1 & 2 you have found a comprehensive list of the how, what, when and where of professional finished seams for your home sewing projects.

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